Day 12 - Two Cathedrals

On Friday I visited both cathedrals in Liverpool, and lit a candle in each. I’m not sure it makes the accompanying prayers ring louder, but I don’t think it’s without merit. What is just symbolism, and what is spiritual action, is one of the oldest nubs of theological disagreement. It’s not magic, but it’s not nothing.

The two cathedrals were both new in the 20th Century, and in mood and architecture they’re magnificent. A new but traditional protestant one, in red stone and marble, which is one of the biggest I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen big’ns! Full of some great modern paintings and sculptures - and the much more exciting catholic cathedral, known as Paddy’s Wigwam. It’s circular, full of coloured glass that turns the sun glorious when viewed from inside. I want to build the former in Minecraft and the latter as a quilt.

They’re both very like museums. Full of art and educational displays, explaining the construction, the history, and the aesthetics. It feels very touristy, in some ways, but I’m not sure that’s a bad thing. Getting people through the doors is always valuable, and getting donations is an economic necessity. Cathedrals are amazingly expensive to sustain. For 900 years or so, cathedrals have been places to visit and wonder at. Somewhere to worship, but also to be wowed. People used to flock for relics and bones. Now they come for works by Tracy Emin or Fenwick Lawson or Mozart or Sting.

A friend of mine finds Durham Cathedral so vast and imposing - that he has a weight on his heart that it was built to the glory of man. Sir Walter Scott described Durham’s mixed and massive piles as ‘half church to God, half castle gainst the Scot’. Cathedrals are many things.

I’ve never fully understood what cathedrals are for. Does God actually want them? They’re especially peculiar within protestantism. To oversimplify Catholicism, the bigger the priest, the closer to God, so a huge place of worship under a bishop is the ideal place to express your devotion and give ear to God. But the churches I’ve known have been more personal, and communication with God is partly priestly, but partly far more individual. With Jesus as great high priest, and the church as a more balanced family, perhaps. From that perspective, I’ve found cathedrals rather echoey and impersonal, with some Bible readings feeling ornamental, rather than vital. Sung worship with a mighty organ makes me think ‘wow, what a mighty organ!’ more than feeling worshipful or focussed on God. Then again, I feel similarly distracted when my own church’s worship band gets fancy and impressive, with their Sufjan Stevens carols and instrumental verses which are entrancing or distraction.

Maybe I’m just fussy and distractible. I suspect some people can meet with God most fully in the splendour of a cathedral or the rich sounds and skills of a band. Maybe I just have a Quaker or even Puritan desire for humble simplicity. I don’t mean to tear the cathedrals down.

I’m glad to have visited them, and paused and prayed, but I can’t imagine making a cathedral my regular place of worship. Vastly impressive, but for me, it’s not for the right reasons. They seem a far more Old Testament model, a vast high temple with ancient customs and secret parts. But God got out! He’s not just at the hotel on Mayfair. Great venues, great museums, but I’ll take my God to go.